In the thrilling new Broadway adaptation of “The Picture of Dorian Gray,” Sarah Snook takes on an incredible challenge by portraying all 26 characters. The question is not whether she can succeed, but rather, how she manages to bring each character to life on stage.

The creative vision of costume designer and scenic designer Marg Horwell plays a pivotal role in transforming Snook into the title character, who is deeply obsessed with outer beauty. Horwell’s collaboration with Snook highlights the actress’s remarkable ability to shift between characters effortlessly. Horwell emphasizes that the essence of the performance is embedded in Snook’s subtle transitions, marked by slight head movements or more dramatic transformations, showcasing her versatile acting skills.

The visionary author-director Kip Williams brings a modern, high-tech twist to Oscar Wilde’s classic tale, making it a captivating experience on Broadway. Snook embodies all 26 characters, predominantly male, including Basil the painter, Sir Henry Wotton, Lady Agatha, and Sybil. Her performance is seamlessly supported by a dedicated camera crew and stage management, enhancing the dynamic storytelling.

Horwell recently sat down with Variety to discuss her inspirations, her meticulous process in creating the perfect costumes, and how cultural icons like Annie Lennox and Bad Bunny influenced her design choices.

Crafting Dorian Gray’s Iconic Look with Cherubic Curls and Victorian Elegance

In creating Dorian’s initial look, we faced practical challenges with the character’s lower half. My goal was to develop a design that could seamlessly transition through the first three characters and our narrator character. The resurgence of Victorian-era fashion over the last five years has greatly inspired this design, encompassing high collars, ruffles, ties, and more androgynous styles that have been prevalent.

When Dorian first appears, I wanted the character to emanate a sense of ethereal lightness, almost as if he is glowing from within. The textured, voluminous curls create a striking visual presence on stage. I experimented extensively to find the ideal camera-friendly outfit, ultimately settling on a white silk top with a high neckline, designed to capture an overwhelming burst of light when Dorian first makes his entrance. The look is intentionally undone, featuring a vest-like garment that blurs the line between masculine and feminine, with long, untied ties that evoke a sense of seduction.

Exploring the Dinner Scene: A Kaleidoscope of Character Looks and Social Commentary

I naturally gravitate towards monochromatic looks, particularly in the dinner scene. Lady Agatha’s pale aesthetic extends throughout her entire appearance. The striking magenta of the Duchess’s costume was crafted from exquisite upholstery fabric adorned with floral patterns and metallic threads. From afar, her lilac hair blends seamlessly with the magenta ensemble, creating a sophisticated monochromatic effect.

This scene is a visual feast, designed to mimic the intimacy of a film while retaining theatrical flair. The close-ups create bold silhouettes brimming with texture, and the characters standing together form a unique, colorful collage. My design approach often begins with historical references, which I then reinterpret with contemporary flair. The jewelry Lady Agatha wears is a personal collection from over a decade ago, layered on her neck to enhance her stature. The fur coat she dons was a generous donation from a supporter of the Sydney theater company, tailored to give her an imposing and slightly awkward posture for dramatic effect.

The Quest for the Perfect Trousers: Functionality Meets Style

Finding the right trousers for Snook was a meticulous process; ultimately, we decided to create them ourselves. Interestingly, there is a pivotal moment in the show where she changes trousers, but it’s cleverly concealed as the audience can only see her upper body while a crew member discreetly alters her footwear and pants during her dialogue.

These trousers are designed for versatility, allowing for freedom of movement during intense scenes, including moments of dance and the pivotal murder of Basil. The construction of the trousers is quite intricate, featuring binding to ensure they remain functional yet stylish. To contrast with the predominantly dark set, we chose a vibrant shade of blue made from French navy wool, which draws attention without clashing with the overall aesthetic.

Due to the lighting screens, we eliminated green from the color palette until we reached the forest scenes, where blue and floral patterns dominate the visual landscape.

Unraveling the Floral Motif: An Evolution of Symbolism in Dorian Gray

In the original novel, Dorian ventures into a lush garden, where Oscar Wilde masterfully details the beauty of materials, jewels, and the intoxicating allure of nature. He vividly describes the garden, its flowers, fragrances, and the buzzing bees. I find flowers to be an intriguing element on stage; their artificiality adds to the theatrical experience. Our design begins with a single flower and gradually evolves into an overwhelming floral presence that envelops Dorian’s character. In pivotal scenes, flowers bloom from the floor and furniture, symbolizing Dorian’s internal struggle and obsession.

As Dorian visits the countryside, the floral motif takes on a claustrophobic quality, emphasizing the character’s suffocating obsession. The color palette shifts to a sickly pink devoid of greens, reflecting his moral decay. The floral arrangements in the country home, while appearing beautiful, are jarring, incorporating elements of consumerism such as toy sharks and unicorns, representing the overindulgence of capitalism. As the show progresses, flowers begin to intertwine with Dorian’s clothing, culminating in a final costume that embodies his entrapment by beauty and aesthetics.

Ensuring Seamless Costume Changes: A Behind-the-Scenes Look

Early in the process, we assembled a dedicated team to handle the intricate costume changes on stage. Many professionals in costume and wig departments are unfamiliar with the demands of live performance in front of cameras. We meticulously planned and rehearsed these changes, akin to choreography, dedicating approximately five hours with Snook to ensure seamless execution on stage.

The rapport between the crew and Snook has greatly improved; they have developed a system of non-verbal cues to communicate effectively during performances. If any issues arise, a gentle tap on her shoulder indicates that adjustments are needed. Snook’s impressive multitasking abilities allow her to maintain her performance while adapting to any necessary changes in real-time.

Unveiling the Significance of Dorian Gray’s Final Costume

The final costume was designed to unravel symbolically, reflecting Dorian’s journey. We layered her costumes until she reached a point of emotional and physical overwhelm in the country house, creating a sensation of claustrophobia.

In the forest scenes, Dorian experiences the heat of her layered costume, which includes a corset, suspenders, and an armor-like garment reminiscent of Versace. This ensemble culminates in a tense monologue where she wields a gun, and the eventual unravelling of her attire signifies a release from her constraints.

My design inspirations included menswear trends from the time, characterized by cinched underwear and flared skirts. The corset, intentionally worn backward, features lace over brocade adorned with flowers, creating an embellished look. Additionally, I drew inspiration from 1980s fashion and iconic figures like Annie Lennox and Bad Bunny, who exemplify androgynous styles that resonate with Dorian’s character arc. This eclectic layering culminates in a costume that embodies both beauty and chaos, symbolizing Dorian’s internal struggles.

As the performance progresses, we see hints of her microphone and wig cap peeking through her unraveling costume, along with long strings and suspender clips. The visual of her seemingly falling apart serves as a poignant metaphor for a character so obsessed with aesthetics and beauty, exploring the implications of self-manufacturing and the consequences of such obsession over the years.

Designing Sybil Vane: Breathing Life into a Two-Dimensional Character

Sybil Vane, although underwritten in the original text, is portrayed as a delicate, two-dimensional character resembling a cupcake princess. She embodies the tragic fate of Juliet after her untimely death. Her costume features a beaded abdomen wound and striking crimson gloves, symbolizing her fleeting life and the dramatic narrative of her demise.

Unpacking the Character of Basil: The Artist’s Vision and Style

Basil shares the same foundational look as the other characters, notably appearing in the opening scene where they all admire the portrait together. His design features an elongated silhouette, with frizzy hair and a slightly disheveled appearance. He wears a distinctive burnt orange coat that is longer than typical for the era, complemented by a velvet tie that is deliberately left half-untied, adding to his artistic persona.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity and brevity.