A quick guide to the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard collection

• Collection range: The eight-piece holiday collection costs $128 to $388 and is offered in sizes 00 to 40.
• Design direction: The collection combines 1970s Saint Laurent inspiration, tuxedo tailoring, satin, lace and faux fur.
• Fit approach: Universal Standard says the designs remain consistent across sizes, with proportions refined through fittings.
• Try-on notes: Jerilyn Harper especially liked the faux fur jacket and tuxedo trousers, while she would size up in the barrel pants for more volume.

This review explores the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard holiday collection, its plus-size design approach and how several pieces felt during a try-on. The collection offers a way to compare the design details and personal fit notes before deciding which silhouettes appeal to you.

I expect holiday fashion to offer a little glamour, a strong silhouette and at least one piece that makes me start checking my calendar for somewhere to wear it.

A faux fur jacket that had me ready to make plans I didn’t even have? That’s another conversation.

When I first saw the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard holiday collection, its 1970s Saint Laurent inspiration immediately caught my attention. Sharp tailoring, satin lapels, dramatic gowns and faux fur create a sophisticated, occasion-ready look.

As someone who considers herself the queen of leather, I knew I had to try the faux leather barrel pants.

The eight-piece collection, priced from $128 to $388, brings Chan back into the design room with Universal Standard, the company that acquired her luxury plus-size label, Henning, in 2023. Every piece is offered in sizes 00 to 40.

Beyond the clothes, the collection raises questions about how fashion approaches plus-size design.

Fashion has often told plus-size women what they should and shouldn’t wear: avoid volume, be careful with fitted silhouettes and make sure everything is flattering.

That advice can push the joy of getting dressed out of the conversation.

I wanted to know how Lauren Chan and Ramon Martin, Universal Standard’s Chief Creative Officer, approached silhouettes that challenge those expectations and maintained design details across an extended size range.

I also wanted to see how the pieces worked when I tried them on.

A designer’s vision can be compelling, and I can still have a few notes about fit.

Why did Lauren Chan return to design with Universal Standard?

Lauren Chan had an existing relationship with Universal Standard before creating this holiday collection. The collaboration follows her experience as an editor, model and founder of Henning.

Chan’s design return builds on her previous work and connection with Universal Standard.

She first met founders Alex Waldman and Polina Veksler while working as an editor at Glamour. Her label Henning later held pop-ups in Universal Standard’s New York space, and Chan modeled for the company before Universal Standard acquired Henning in 2023.

For Chan, returning to design with the brand felt like a natural next chapter.

“It had been a few years since I’d made any clothing, and with so many brands pulling back on extended sizes, it felt like an important time to contribute to the landscape,” she told TCF.

Chan’s concerns about fashion’s direction are connected to wider issues in size inclusivity.

According to the October 2026 Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2027 Size Inclusivity Report, plus-size representation remained limited across the major fashion weeks. The report found that approximately a quarter of the New York brands examined offered no size larger than a U.S. 14, while nearly half stopped at a U.S. 16.

The research covers runway brands and their online size offerings, not the entire fashion retail industry. It illustrates why fashion visibility and access to clothing deserve separate consideration.

Chan has experienced that distinction personally.

“As someone who’s shopped plus-sizes, I understand the emotional and tangible impacts of not having equal access to clothing,” she explained. “As an editor, I saw how often plus-size women were left out of the conversation. And building Henning taught me how to perfect garments in all sizes.”

Chan’s stated goal was to create elevated clothing without asking larger customers to compromise on design.

Although Henning was known for tailoring, Chan wanted to explore a different side of her aesthetic.

“Creatively, the masculine suiting from Henning is woven into the collection, but Ramon and I leaned into the sexier, more feminine side too, with dramatic touches like faux fur and lace.”

The collection pairs menswear-inspired tailoring with feminine details such as faux fur and lace.

What does the 1970s Saint Laurent inspiration bring to the collection?

The 1970s Saint Laurent reference gives the collection a clear design direction, linking tuxedo-inspired eveningwear with dramatic shapes. That context helps explain the cropped tuxedo jacket, satin lapels and proportions.

Saint Laurent-inspired eveningwear connects tailored suiting with a dramatic, feminine wardrobe.

The references to 1970s Saint Laurent call to mind an era when tuxedo dressing became an important part of women’s eveningwear and challenged the idea that a woman needed a traditional gown to look glamorous.

Saint Laurent’s famous Le Smoking tuxedo was introduced in 1966, and its influence continued through the following decade as tailored eveningwear became closely associated with the designer’s aesthetic.

That history gives the collaboration’s cropped tuxedo jacket, satin lapels and dramatic proportions additional context.

Chan also credited Ramon Martin and his design team for shaping the collection’s direction.

“They brought the ’70s inspiration to the table, along with monochromatic paintings and some nods to Henning,” she explained.

The team selected silhouettes, chose materials and refined the fit together.

Martin described the result as a balance between traditionally masculine and feminine design elements.

“There’s a real sense of seduction to this collection, with a balance of masculine and feminine, the tuxedo on one side and the gown on the other.”

The collection presents different styling options without requiring women to follow somebody else’s expectations.

The tuxedo and gown offer contrasting looks, and the pieces can be styled traditionally or in a more individual way.

That design freedom connects with a wider conversation about fashion rules.

Who made the rules about what plus-size women can wear?

The rules that tell plus-size women what to avoid are not the same as practical garment-fit considerations. The conversation is more useful when it distinguishes personal style preferences from technical construction.

Fit guidance should address how a garment is constructed, not assume that every wearer wants to look smaller.

Who decided plus-size women shouldn’t wear horizontal stripes, exaggerated shoulders or anything that emphasizes the shape of their bodies?

Some fashion advice makes getting dressed sound like an exercise in hiding.

Lauren Chan has had enough of that approach.

“For a long time, plus-size women have been handed a list of what not to wear. Nothing too fitted, cover your arms—for God’s sake: no horizontal stripes! And I call bullshit.”

Chan’s response rejects the idea that clothing should be chosen primarily to conceal the body.

She continued, “All of those tips and tricks to look ‘flattering’ just mean ‘make yourself look smaller,’ which isn’t the goal for many of us.”

A preference for a defined waist or a particular silhouette is personal. Assuming every plus-size woman wants her body to appear smaller is different.

Martin said his team separates those assumptions from the technical considerations involved in making a garment.

“A lot of those rules were never about fit. They were about hiding the body.”

He continued, “Real fit considerations are technical, like where a shoulder sits or how a fabric drapes and moves, and we work those out in the fitting room.”

For this collection, the team used strong shoulders and floor-length hems rather than avoiding those features.

“When the construction is right, there’s no reason a plus-size woman can’t wear any of it.”

The discussion can focus on whether clothing has been designed to fit properly, rather than whether a woman should wear a particular silhouette.

How does Universal Standard preserve design details from size 00 to 40?

Universal Standard says it keeps the design consistent from size 00 to 40 and uses fittings to refine proportions. Details such as lapels, hemlines and fabric drape require attention across the size range.

Consistent design across sizes depends on adjusting garment proportions without stripping away defining details.

Construction matters because the placement of a lapel, the weight of a fabric, the way a hem falls and how pleats sit at the waist can change how a garment looks and feels.

When a design is offered across a broad size range, those details need careful attention.

Chan was particularly concerned with preserving those features.

“I also wanted the pieces to have the exact same design across the board from size 00 to 40, no separate plus-size versions with the details stripped away!”

Martin said maintaining the original design is a guiding principle for Universal Standard.

“For us, it starts with one rule. The design stays the same across the whole size range, 00 to 40. We don’t make a simplified version for bigger sizes.”

Keeping the design consistent does not mean using an identical construction process for every size.

During fittings, the team works through proportions so details such as lapels and hemlines retain their intended appearance.

Fabric selection is another consideration.

“We chose materials like cupro and satin because of how they feel and move on the body, and that matters just as much at the top of the size range.”

One of the final fittings also led to a significant design adjustment.

Martin recalled Chan looking at a dress and recognizing that it could become a floor-length gown.

“That one call changed the piece.”

Understanding decisions behind a finished garment adds context to its design and construction.

I also wanted to know whether that attention to detail translated when I tried the clothes on.

So I put the collection to the test.

What happened when I tried on the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard collection?

Why did the faux fur jacket make me want to get dressed up?

The faux fur jacket was one of my favorite pieces in the collection. Its chocolate-brown color, warm feel and hook-and-eye closure stood out during my try-on.

The faux fur jacket combines a distinctive color and discreet closure with a statement-making look.

Putting on the faux fur jacket immediately made me want to find somewhere to go.

I didn’t have plans or an invitation, but suddenly I needed somewhere to be.

The chocolate-brown color caught my attention, and the jacket felt warm when I tried it on. I also noticed the hook-and-eye closure, which let the jacket close without interrupting its overall look.

I felt great wearing it.

The faux fur jacket was easily one of my favorite pieces from the collection.

Chan said she wanted the garments to work beyond the holiday season.

“If you’re going to invest in a piece, it should last,” she explained.

Chan sees the faux fur coat as a piece that can be styled with many outfits. A statement coat does not need to wait for a formal invitation; it can be the reason to get dressed.

Should you size up in the faux leather barrel pants?

I tried the faux leather barrel pants in a size 18. The waist felt a little snug at first, but the pants stretched with wear and became more comfortable; I would size up for a more exaggerated barrel-leg silhouette.

Barrel pants sizing can depend on whether you prioritize a comfortable fit or more volume through the leg.

I love leather, both faux and genuine, especially when it has texture and a good silhouette.

So naturally, I had to try the faux leather barrel pants.

I’ve never been the biggest fan of barrel pants. I like an exaggerated silhouette, and I want enough volume through the leg to appreciate the shape.

I tried the pants in a size 18, and the waist initially felt a little snug.

After wearing them a few times, the pants stretched out and became more comfortable.

Would I size up if I ordered them again?

Absolutely, for the silhouette I want rather than necessarily for the waist.

I would choose a larger size to get more of the barrel-leg volume.

The extra volume is the appeal for me.

The size 18 eventually felt comfortable, but I would personally go up a size for the silhouette I prefer.

A garment can fit your body, while a different size may better achieve the look you want.

As Chan told me, “You get to decide what’s ‘flattering’ to you.”

I want the same drama in my barrel pants.

How did the tuxedo set fit and feel?

The tuxedo set pairs a cropped jacket and satin lapels with tailored trousers. I liked the trousers’ substantial fabric, pleats and three-button waist detail, while the jacket took more experimentation to style.

Tuxedo set fit varied by piece in my try-on: the trousers were an easy favorite, and the jacket called for styling adjustments.

I was excited to try the tuxedo set, with its cropped jacket, satin lapels and tailored trousers.

The tuxedo jacket took a little work to style.

The contrasting satin lapels were one of my favorite jacket details, giving it the sophisticated tuxedo look I wanted.

The jacket took some styling experimentation, but I would try it with a statement button-up, perhaps one with ruffles down the front or a tie to emphasize the menswear inspiration.

The tuxedo trousers were the standout for me.

The fabric felt substantial and gave the trousers a structured, tailored feel without sacrificing comfort.

The pleats and three-button waist detail also caught my attention.

Those details gave the trousers character. The pleats complemented the silhouette, the buttons added visual interest and the trousers felt comfortable.

The cropped jacket was not necessarily a favorite, but I appreciated its design and could imagine styling it differently.

The tuxedo trousers are the piece I expect to keep wearing.

What makes the lace camisole stand out?

The lace camisole gives a wardrobe staple added personality through lace edging and a tie at the waist. The waist tie creates a defined shape without making the piece feel like a basic layer.

Lace trim and a waist tie make the camisole’s simple silhouette more distinctive.

I did not expect the lace camisole from Lauren Chan x Universal Standard to give a wardrobe staple so much personality.

The lace edging adds a feminine touch, while the waist tie is the detail that caught my attention.

I love a defined waist.

The tie helps define the silhouette and emphasize the body’s shape rather than hide it.

For me, the camisole shows how the designers approached femininity and celebrated the body’s natural curves.

Why does size inclusivity need to go beyond a fashion campaign?

Size inclusivity involves more than featuring plus-size models in campaigns; customers also need access to the clothes shown. The collection’s sizes, fit and design details are part of that broader consideration.

Inclusive fashion connects representation with the practical availability of well-designed clothing.

Seeing plus-size models in campaigns matters, and so does being able to shop the clothes they wear.

A 2025 Vogue Business survey of 687 readers in the U.S. and U.K. found that 48% felt pressure to lose weight to feel fashionable. Among those respondents, sizing challenges were cited more often than runway shows or advertising.

Martin made a similar point about the difference between representation and access.

“Putting someone in an ad isn’t the same as designing beautiful clothes for her and keeping them on the shelf.”

He also acknowledged the work involved in creating inclusive occasionwear.

“Occasionwear is harder because so much of it depends on construction and fabric, and getting that right across a big size range takes time and investment.”

The collection offers sizes 00 to 40, and its design details, fit and quality across that range also merit attention.

Martin also highlighted Universal Standard’s Fit Liberty program, which allows eligible garments to be exchanged once for a different size within a year, subject to program terms.

Martin said the goal is to make inclusive sizing part of fashion’s everyday design process.

“Once that’s built into how a brand works, extended sizing stops being a separate conversation and just becomes fashion.”

What is my overall verdict on the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard collection?

After trying on the collection and experimenting with different outfits, I rate Lauren Chan x Universal Standard 8 out of 10!

My overall rating reflects a cohesive design direction, standout trousers and a faux fur jacket I especially enjoyed, alongside pieces that needed more styling or a different preferred fit.

I appreciate a cohesive collection with a designer’s vision carried throughout.

The sharp tuxedo tailoring, satin lapels, feminine lace details and dramatic faux fur felt connected. Each piece had its own personality without losing the collection’s overall direction.

The faux fur jacket made me want to find plans, the tuxedo trousers were an easy yes and the lace camisole showed how a wardrobe staple can stand out.

I would size up in the barrel pants for more volume. The cropped tuxedo jacket took styling experimentation, but I appreciated its design.

Not every piece was an immediate favorite, but I understood the design vision. For me, that cohesion is what makes the collection work.

Let’s talk! Which piece from the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard collection caught your attention, and what fashion rule have you decided to leave behind?