What are the advantages of kojic acid?

Kojic acid is primarily effective in evening out skin tone. Heredia recommends it for treating inflammatory hyperpigmentation resulting from acne, ingrown hairs, sunspots, and certain types of melasma.

“One thing I always like to clarify is that kojic acid doesn’t “bleach” the skin,” says Heredia. “Instead, it helps regulate excess pigment production. It treats existing discoloration to gradually fade while preventing the formation of new dark spots.”

How should I apply kojic acid?

Kojic acid can be applied to both the face and body, making it a versatile ingredient. It is particularly beneficial for the neck, chest, and underarms, among other affected areas.

However, individuals with very sensitive skin, active eczema, or compromised skin barriers should exercise caution as the ingredient may exacerbate redness or irritation.

Additionally, Heredia emphasizes that SPF is essential when using products containing kojic acid. Without sunscreen, “you’re essentially trying to empty a bathtub while the faucet is still running,” Heredia explains.

She also cautions against layering too many active ingredients like retinol and other actives as “overdoing it can damage the skin barrier and actually worsen inflammation, which may ultimately contribute to more pigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones.”

Which kojic acid products do experts recommend?